Bramley apple crumble is one of those dishes that asks for nothing fancy and rewards every gram of attention you give it.

The Bramley is the only apple that holds its shape and its acidity through baking — sharp, fluffy, almost custard-like by the time the crumble is golden. Cook them low with a touch of demerara, a knife-tip of cinnamon, a strip of lemon zest, and nothing else.

The topping is half plain flour, a quarter rolled oats, a quarter cold butter, rubbed together until it looks like coarse breadcrumbs. Scatter generously over the fruit, push it down lightly, bake at 180°C until the top is bronzed and the apple is bubbling through. Serve with proper cream — pouring, not whipped.

Comfort food, executed properly, is one of the hardest things to do in a kitchen. It has nowhere to hide.